TMC2660 success at last

I was very frustrated with my failure to get the TMC2660 board variation running. I checked and double checked the connections, alas the steppers would not move at all.

I purchased one TMC2660-BOB kit from digikey and started experimenting with it, instead of my board. At first, I had the same failure – the stepper would not move at all. The software was a very simple Arduino sketch – what would be that wrong. Since the kit was designed by Trinamic, the hardware should be proper. Alas, no luck. I declared the TMC2660 chip cursed and moved to my soldering machine project.

Yesterday I decided to give the test jig one more try. After a few failed attempts. I spotted an error in the Arduino code – I was passing the incorrect CS pin in the driver setup. DUH!!! After a quick fix it was working.

Then I moved back to my original goal to test the thermal dissipation ability of my TMC2660 PrntrBoard design. I connected my board and started to torture test the motor driver. Unfortunately I was not able to run the driver past 1.5A RMS, which is a shame. I’ll try using a different motor with higher coli resistance. Anyhow here is an image from my thermal camera of the top of the ship:

The chip has no heat-sink and runs at 54C. This is not bad at all. much cooler than the TMC2130 version. The board seems to be dissipating quite a bit of the energy.

Here is a picture of the bottom of the board:

The bottom is at 45C in the center, which I think is quite good thermal conductivity of the board layers.

I feel good about the board thermal capabilities. If I add heat-sinks on the top and the bottom it should be able to run at 2A RMS and above with active cooling.

Soldering machine improvements

I was very confident in my soldering machine from the tests I conducted the previous week. I decided to program a whole board and try it out.

Alas the confidence was premature and multiple failures ensued. Here is an example

I tried many things, but the soldering wire was hitting the pin and was not melting. I tried re-aligning the needle to point to the solder iron tip instead of the pin. This did not produce improvements at all. I had to aim fairly high to avoid hitting the pin and now the solder was not flowing down and bulging.

I was getting frustrated and decided to look at a few videos of commercial soldering machines for inspiration.

After a few hours I devised a new mount for the soldering needle. The previous mount was allowing adjustments only in the angle of the soldering iron as well as the needle. This configuration seems quite limited. Applying maximum effort here is the new plan:

Now the syringe is mounted on this dual clamp. The clamp allows for both items to rotate. The other end of the clamp is connected to a 3mm steel rod, which adds another degree of rotation. Finally the rod is connected to the mount plate with a plank which allows both: XY movement as well as rotation.

Here is the final assembly after a few dozen failed 3D printing jobs

The new mounting system adds quite a bit of flexibility to the position of the needle that guides the solder wire. Hopefully I’ll be able to find a location which works in most cases.

 

Soldering machine tests

I’ve been running the soldering machine for about 2 weeks. I added a very ugly, but effective fume extractor to the machine head.

It has 40mm fan and a square piece of carbon-activated filter to absorb the fumes. The design is not my best work and is held together with hot glue. However it does work.

Some early failures of the soldering were quite comical:

But some tweaks of the G-Code and it is mostly working now

At this stage it is completely manual programming. No computer vision at all. I’m recording all soldering sessions so they can be used for training ML models later.

My test board is fairly straight forward, so programming the G-Code is not hard. I use a simple C++ program to send the commands to the 3D printer controller. This allows me to add the necessary delay and in the future integrate some processing of the camera image.

I also managed to find an M12 camera lens with much less distortion, to the point that the image no longer needs corrections.

Soldering machine progress

I managed to put together the chassis of the soldering machine. The bulk of it is made from parts for a Prusa MK3 3D printer. It provides a good start point so I can experiment further.

This is what is looked like in the beginning

I also put this mounting plate to hold the connectors that I need to solder for my test board. With this plate I can insert the connectors, place the board over and get it soldered quickly, then move to the next one.

Here is a video how the head would move along the Y axis

And another one along the X axis. This one needs to hop over the pins.

I used my PrntrBoard controller to drive the motors. This is a picture of the machine in it’s current variation. I added the Prusa LCD display, but have not connected it yet.

Extruder thermal control board

For a while now I had this idea – create a small board which controls the extruder heaters and fans.

Why – you ask? Well hear my theory. I have this old printer – the RigidBot. It has dual extruder – all direct drive. However I noticed that when it starts to work my temperature readings become very noisy.

Initially I was puzzled, why the noise. After some investigation I noticed that the noise is present only after the printer motors are on. If I switch the motors off (via G-code command) the temperature line in OctoPrint becomes smooth again. It turns out the motor current is creating EMF interference with the thermisor wire.

So I was thinking instead of routing all these wires back and forth, I can build a small board with a cheap CPU that controls the temperature. I can also outsource the control of the cooling fans and even add local display etc.

All the wires needed would be power and some way to communicate between the main board and the extruder daughter board. Audio cables are relatively cheap and well shielded – I can use one for I2C or Serial communication.

In a dual extruder setup one can save quite a bit of wires: two pairs of power wires for the heaters, two pairs for the thermistors, another two pairs for the extruder fans and one or two pairs for parts cooling fans. All these could be replaced with one pair for power and an audio cable for communication – the rest of the wires are all local to the board. Well one has to mount the board somewhere close to the hotends.

Long story short, the first version of the board was not a grand success. The power supply was very noisy and the temperature readings from the ADC were so unreliable, that it was throwing the PID into a weird loop.

Here is the second installment of the board. The power is now dual stage – a buck converter to 5V and then LDO to 3.3V for the micro controller. The LDO filters the noise from the buck converter.

The brain is STM32F030 micro controller. There are 3 fan connectors with tachometer inputs, so in theory the board can alarm if the fan stops working, just like the Prusa MK3. There are 2 thermistor inputs, 2 heater MOSFETS as well as 2 thermocouple controller inputs – for MAX31855 or MAX31865 or similar.

In the next version the voltage the fans would be select-able to whatever the input is (12V or 24V) or 5V. There is a bunch of unpopulated extension pins and an LCD connector for extra fanciness.

I was testing the PID in Arduino code and it works quite well this time.

Just for fun I decided to try my thermal camera to see if there are any hot spots. The picture is with the heater 1 working.

No surprises, the heater MOSFET is a bit warm. The hottest spot is on the buck converter – 37C. Don’t be alarmed by the bright colors 37C is barely warm to the touch.

I’m still trying to figure out what should I use as software platform. Arduino is simple, but somewhat limiting. The STM32 CumeMX is another option. There is MBed and FreeRTOS options if I want to try multi tasking. Oh decisions, decisions.

~V

The TMC2660 board was a bust

I dusted off my trusty pick and place and made one of the newly received TMC2660 driver boards.

Since it’s the first time I test this setup I populated only one of the driver chips – the X axis.

Alas it was all in vain. After fighting with it for several days, the motor would not spin properly. Either my stepper driver configuration so completely busted (although I double and triple checked) or the driver chip is fried. One of the phases works, but the other sends no current to the stepper motor.

Also I was trying to fit some automotive fuses on the board – you know for protection. Alas the fuse holders I ordered are very flimsy and don’t fit the fuses at all. Ordered a different set, but have to wait.

Bummer 🙁

Completed redesign of the TMC2660 branch

I spent a lot of time getting the PrntrBoard tmc2130 version to work. I’m at the point where I’m quite happy with it and don’t see major further changes. The tmc2660 branch did not get a lot of attention in the mean time.

So I spent a weekend completely re-designing the tmc2660 board. I ported all changes from the tmc2130 version. There is now a dedicated ground plane layer and routing it much easier.

I opted to put all drivers on one side of the board. Unfortunately limiting the size to 10x10cm (or 3.9×3.9 inches), I could not fit all drivers in one row.  Hopefully cooling would not be major PITA as it was on the tmc2130 version.

Here is a screenshot of the 3D rendering of the redesigned board:

Please excuse my mistake, the top row of power connectors is facing backwards. Fortunately these are symmetrical and I can simply solder them the other way.

Here is a view from the top:

I used very aggressive layout for the connectors and I ended with some spare space in the middle of the board. I was thinking to add two automotive type fuse holders for extra protection. I haven’t quite settled on what fuse holder to use. Here are two renderings with the footprints in KiCAD:

And view from the top:

All changes have been pushed to my GitHub design repository page. The version with the fuses is in the tmc2660-fuse branch.

Controller brain – replaced

While I was working on porting Smoothieware to run on my 3D printer controller, I was going back and forth between my trusted NUCLEO-64 F446 devkit and a new acquisition from china – the “Black VET6“. That was a very capable board with onboard SPI EEPROM, battery backup, micro SD card and USB connector – all this for less that $10 from aliexpress.

While the NUCLEO has the advantage of build-in ST-LINK debugger, I was missing the SD-CARD connector and the extra pins to work with.

The NUCLEO-64 uses only 64-pin micro-controller package and I was running out of available IO pins. For example on the Rev3 of my controller I has to use every last pin to be able to connect an LCD screen – and even then sharing the SPI bus between the screen and the TMC drivers was causing some issues.

Here comes a proposed solution for this issues: a NUCLEO-64 form factor board designed with a 100-pin MCU (STM32F407VE):

This was my very first try and I did not have all parts available yet, so you can see some unpopulated pads.

The board is the same size as NUCLEO-64, and has the same dual row connector on the back:

Here is a “fuzzy” picture of the two boards side by side:

The USB connector is micro-usb, which I think is more available. There is a micro-sd card slot and a plethora of expansion ports for future extensions like LCD panel, WiFi module or even more extruders.

I also added some SPI EEPROM so we can save settings etc. Last but not least there is a power supply module which provides 5V up to 3A from 12 to 24V input. The 5V and 3.3V from the CPU board are connected to the motor controller board so there is no need for an external 5V buck converter anymore.

The only slight disadvantage is that now I have to use external ST-LINK adapter to program the board and an external serial-to-usb adapter for debugging.

Here is a little video comparing the two boards side by side:

Tested LCD interface

I had one RAMPS discount full graphics controller laying around from my RigidBot. I did use it with the original controller and decided to test it with the PrntrBoard.

In Rev1 and Rev2 of the board I did not have enough pins on the LCD connector to be able to use all buttons on the panel. In the Rev3 I used every last pin of the tiny 64-pin package and I just got enough (or so I thought).

I learned the SPI used by the LCD panel is not very standard and had to fight with Marlin to make the TMC drivers and the LCD co-exist on the same SPI bus.

Finally I was able to use the panel:

One of the pins I used for the button input did not quite cooperate, so I have only one button + the rotary controller for the UI. Lucky for me both Marlin and Smoothieware were functioning with that configuration.

I had to disable the TMC diver monitoring, because the LCD controller was getting confused by the SPI communication with the TMC drivers. I think I can create a small breakout board with a few AND gates to alleviate this interference.

Here is a video of the panel working in Smoothieware: